The creation of jewels is an art that obeys precise and rigorous rules from the original design, the selection of stones and metals until the final realization. The beauty and quality depend on each step, each hand that with patience and meticulousness make it possible to obtain a unique and valuable jewel.
pattern
At the origin of the jewel, there is an idea and this idea must be transmitted. The sketch is the first step which must then be complemented by a technical drawing on the scale and which must take into account the constraints of volume, feasibility. Then it is gouache to approach as much as possible of the final objective. It is often necessary to realize different views of the jewel.
Model
The next step is to produce a model, mostly in wax, but it can also be made of metal. The scale of the drawing must be respected. All volumes are marked as well as the locations of stones and / or beads. This allows to visualize the future jewel in 3D and to make some corrections if necessary.
Choice of metal and cast iron
Once the wax model has been approved, it remains to determine the metal and deposit it in the smelter for transformation into gold, platinum or silver version ... The metal model can be worked directly to give birth to the jewel.
Resumption of iron
At the exit of the cast iron, the jeweler must apply to take the jewel in order to "clean" it, to smooth it, to specify the openings provided for the stones, to adjust the size, to adapt different elements if necessary and to perform a pre -polished.
Hallmark
After all these steps the jeweler insculates his punch called "punch of master" which has a losangic shape. The jewel is now ready to go into the hands of the customs department called "Guarantee". It is at this point that the nature of the metal and its titration are verified. The corresponding punch is inscribed, thus providing a guarantee to the consumer as well as proof of payment of the tax on precious metals.
Crimping
On returning from the Guarantee, it is the moment of the intervention of the crimper. He positions the stones and opts for a mode of crimp by referring to the initial drawing. Closed or clawed seams are often reserved for central stones, while grains are best suited for paving.
Polishing
Finally the jewel can be polished to give it all its brilliance and finish. Again the option polished, shiny, matte, brushed, hammered is determined by the starting pattern. White gold is sometimes rhodium-plated to make it brighter. There are also "rhodiages" of color used in more modern creations, such as black or chocolate. Possible engravings or chisels can be added if the design provides.
The jewel can finally be delivered to its future owner!