Snake Jewelry: The Secret of Its Popularity
Bulgari, which has just unveiled its Mediterranea jewelry collection, has made the snake one of its trademarks. Other major houses have also taken inspiration from this reptile for their creations. Where does this fashion come from? Miller, the antique jewelry specialist in Paris , sheds light on this jewelry question.
Snake-inspired jewelry has been popular for a few decades now.
For 75 years, gold jewelry adorned with snakes has been appearing around the wrists, necks and fingers of Bulgari jewelry house customers. Notably, Hollywood stars. In 1962, a commercial for the film Cleopatra (1963) featured Elizabeth Taylor sporting a massive Bulgari Serpenti diamond wristwatch wrapped around her wrist.
It wasn't the reptile that caused the death of the Egyptian queen, but a simple jeweled watch. However, this connection highlights the symbolism of the snake in many cultures. It will probably be featured again in the remake of the film in which Gal Gado will play the role of Cleopatra.
Bulgari Serpenti: an emblem of the brand
It was Cleopatra’s jewels that inspired Bulgari to create its first Serpenti watch in 1948. And since then, the serpent has proven itself to be a perfect theme for jewelry. As Bulgari Group CEO Jean-Christophe Babin puts it, the serpent has showcased the Italian brand’s creativity and ingenious craftsmanship, proving “ that it was and is the ultimate Bulgari symbol, that of perpetual metamorphosis. ”
The serpent is therefore a metaphor for renewal . Today, the Bulgari serpent has been refined into a highly stylized diamond viper. “ Reinterpreting Serpenti again and again without changing its identity is an inspiring challenge, ” said Lucia Silvestri, Creative Director of Bulgari Joaillerie. “ It is this perfect balance between its heritage and creative evolution that has made this icon truly timeless, and always in tune with its times. ”
- Illario snake gold and diamond bracelet
Lalalounis: another house inspired by the snake
The snake has a sensual and totemic power. It has seduced the Aztecs, the ancient Egyptians and the Greeks. In Greece, “ it is one of the most revered animals and a symbol of rebirth, renewal, health and fertility, ” explains Demetra Lalaounis , director and one of the 4 daughters of the famous Athenian jeweler Lalaounis Jewels. Since the early 1960s, “ its extensive symbolic meaning, its sensuality and its transformative and elegant qualities keep drawing us back to it and pushing us to continue to reinterpret it using different techniques. ” Lalaounis snakes are smooth and shimmering or textured, imitating snakeskin with diamonds on the back.
Cartier, Boucheron and Tiffany have also tried the snake theme for their jewelry.
The reptile has inspired snake jewelry from Boucheron , Cartier, and Elsa Peretti of Tiffany & Co., not to mention countless independent jewelry designers and artists. Serpent Bohème was originally a snake necklace designed by founder Frédéric Boucheron for his wife Gabrielle. It was recreated by the house in the 1960s. And again in 2017 in a highly abstract form inspired by the snake's head. Tiffany's gold necklace is also very refined with the snake clutching its tail like Ouroboros. Cartier frequently draws inspiration from the animal world for its designs, including the snake. Notably with the Water Aspis necklace (pictured above) from its high jewelry collection Beautés du Monde, for example.
